Tarun Tahiliani urges industry collaboration to tackle issues of plagiarism, sustainability, and fashion education – Lifestyle News
Tarun Tahiliani’s OTT collection stands as a testament to his enduring vision and unparalleled craftsmanship in the realm of Indian haute couture. Rooted in a deep appreciation for both tradition and innovation, Tahiliani’s latest offering transcends mere fashion to embody a narrative of timeless elegance and cultural resonance. Premiering at the prestigious Lakmé Fashion Week in collaboration with NEXA and FDCI, the OTT collection mesmerized audiences with its bold yet sophisticated aesthetic, characterized by intricate draping and luxurious fabrics. Each piece in the collection reflects Tahiliani’s meticulous attention to detail and his ability to seamlessly blend traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary global styles. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the OTT collection also underscores Tahiliani’s commitment to sustainability, integrating eco-friendly practices into his design ethos without compromising on luxury or quality. This introduction sets the stage for an exploration of Tahiliani’s creative process, inspirations, and the enduring impact of his work on the landscape of modern Indian fashion.
Tell us something about OTT. How will it be different from your other gorgeous collections, and can you walk us through the inspiration and story behind this particular collection?
OTT has truly been a long-cherished dream of mine, something that’s been in the works for many years. We tried to launch a capsule collection back in 2006, but at the time, we didn’t have the resources or the infrastructure to grow it the way it needed to be. OTT is a different beast—it requires a whole different approach, especially in terms of production and economies of scale. So, for a while, we got pulled back into what we knew best—bridal and couture, which thankfully continues to flourish.
But my longing for something simpler yet sophisticated never went away. I’ve always wanted to create a collection that’s rooted in Latin and linen-inspired fabrics—something that’s not just about vibrant color or intricate embroidery, but about the flow, the drape, and the essence of the fabric itself. For me, draping has always been the heart of fashion in the subcontinent. It’s timeless and iconic, and I feel like we need to hold onto that tradition while updating it with a modern, fresh sensibility.
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What I envision with OTT is a cool, contemporary take on Indian fashion—something that’s recognizable but with a global, versatile appeal. It’s rooted in Indian heritage without being overly ornate or heavy. I want it to feel modern, wearable, and comfortable, with a vibe that transcends borders. This collection is my love letter to the evolving spirit of Indian fashion—something that’s stylish but also grounded in tradition. Because if we don’t innovate, we risk losing the unique identity of what we have, and I don’t want that.
How was it to be associated with NEXA at the Lakmē Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI? How has this collaboration influenced your approach on OTTs and design and representation?
When NEXA first approached me, I was genuinely thrilled. It’s always been a pleasure working with them, and we did a wonderful show together about two and a half years ago during the March edition of Lakmé Fashion Week. When we were approached for this collaboration, I took the time to understand their brand values because, for me, collaboration only works when there’s true alignment in vision. And I have to say, a lot of what they shared felt like I could have written it myself—there was such a natural synergy between our perspectives.
More than the collaboration, it was a beautiful confluence of ideas. It brought out an even deeper sense of refinement and elegance in what we were creating. I ended up incorporating blue into the collection, which I hadn’t initially envisioned. But sometimes, being pushed into a new direction can lead to discoveries you hadn’t anticipated. It was a great reminder that even when we have a clear vision, there’s always room to explore and expand. This partnership with NEXA helped me refine and evolve my approach, making OTT even more polished and globally appealing while staying true to the roots of Indian fashion.
OTT suggests a bold maximalist approach. How do you balance such an expressive aesthetic with the elegance and intricacy that your designs are known for?
It’s interesting because, on the surface, OTT might suggest a bold, maximalist approach, but in reality, it’s almost the opposite. The name itself, with its lowercase “tt” and simple oval design, reflects a more understated sensibility. There’s an intentional contrast between the idea of “OTT” and the designs we’ve created—it’s almost a playful twist on the expectations.
While OTT does explore bold elements, it’s not about overwhelming the wearer with excess; rather, it’s about creating a balance between expressive statement pieces and the elegance and intricacy that I’m known for. The designs are expressive, but they’re also grounded in refined, timeless details. The idea is to find harmony between those two worlds—where boldness and simplicity coexist, where modernity meets tradition. I think there will be a lot of reactions to this juxtaposition, and that’s part of the fun of it all. It’s exciting to see how people respond to this fresh yet familiar approach. Let’s see where it takes us!
The collection revives the archival Tarun Tahiliani and explores intricacies such as kashida and tankha. Please elaborate.
The first OTT collection is designed to be simple and streamlined, with a focus on newness rather than just revisiting past prints. While we’ve incorporated some archival elements, the collection is about pushing forward and creating something fresh. We’ve collaborated with artists like Rabindranath and used my paintings alongside artwork from Ram Kumar to bring a contemporary Indian art sensibility into the designs.
While the collection is minimalist, traditional techniques like kaschira, tankha, chikankari, and khasida will gradually make their way in as OTT evolves, blending heritage with modernity. At Lakmé Fashion Week, I’m particularly excited about the draping, which is done in a simple, minimal yet dynamic way. The modularity of the collection is also key—each piece can be styled in multiple ways, allowing women to mix and match with their wardrobe. This flexibility is, I believe, the future of fashion: versatile, personal, and globally wearable.
Lakme Fashion Week is always a platform for creativity and innovation. What experimental elements have you incorporated into OTT that you are particularly excited about?
At Lakmé Fashion Week, I’m excited to showcase the drape in a fresh, modern way—traditionally seen as formal but here reimagined to be fluid, versatile, and effortlessly stylish. Another key experimental element is the modular design, where each piece can be worn in multiple ways, offering freedom and creativity to the wearer. This approach speaks to the future of fashion—versatile, sustainable, and allowing personal expression. OTT is about merging modernity with heritage, and I’m eager to see how it connects with audiences.
Sustainability is becoming a staple in fashion. How does your collection OTT address sustainability, and how are you incorporating eco-friendly practices in your design process?
Sustainability is a focus in OTT, though it’s not about using only natural fabrics. Some of our designs incorporate synthetic bases where necessary because certain fabrics require that combination for breathability or functionality. However, my core philosophy is about creating clothes that people will cherish and wear for years, rather than just for a season. When you love something and can wear it in multiple ways, you never tire of it, and that, to me, is the truest form of sustainability. After all, with over 90 billion garments ending up in landfills each year, we need to think beyond just the environmental impact of production.
In our process, we focus on clean printing, efficient cutting, and reducing waste. Everything is produced with minimal excess, and while we use advanced machines, there’s still a human touch involved in crafting each piece. For me, sustainability is not just about the materials but about longevity—creating pieces that are versatile, timeless, and designed to be loved and worn for years to come.
With the metaverse and NFTs becoming a part of the fashion?
The future of fashion is evolving in so many ways, and while things like the metaverse and NFTs are gaining traction, for me, fashion will always be about the creative process. Yes, I’m influenced by the world around me—by my travels, the people I meet, and of course, by what’s happening globally. But at the heart of it, my focus remains on the pure excitement of creation.
I approach fashion with a visceral sense of what feels right for the moment. It’s often hard to articulate, but I trust that inner voice and let it guide me. I have a few trusted people I discuss ideas with, and together we explore new possibilities. That sense of discovery and excitement in the creative process is what keeps me coming back to work every day. Ultimately, while technology and innovation will continue to shape fashion, the core of it will always be about expressing something true and meaningful through design.
Technology is rapidly influencing in various ways. What role do you see AI playing in the future of fashion, especially in the context of your creative process?
I’ve seen some incredible things with AI like someone taking a logo and turning it into a sneaker or generating designs with the word “baroko”—and while it’s fascinating, I often wonder if that’s really the direction we want to go. I’m drawn to simpler, cleaner, beautifully made things—pieces that I can wear over and over again, that carry meaning and craftsmanship. That’s where my heart lies.
Of course, AI has tremendous potential in many areas, and it will undoubtedly play a role in the future of fashion, especially when it comes to production, logistics, and personalizing experiences. But I’d be sad to see it take over the creative process. For me, and the team I work with—whether in production, design, or communications—the creative journey is something we cherish. It’s what gives our work soul, and I believe it’s that human touch, that joy of creation, that will always be irreplaceable. I don’t want fashion to be dictated by machines. It’s the people, the culture, and the emotions behind the designs that make it truly special.
In today’s digital age, how do you think a designer can maintain a balance between traditional craftsmanship and modern technology, including AI-driven tools?
Maintaining a balance between traditional craftsmanship and modern technology is essential, especially in a context like India, where we have such a rich heritage of artisanal skills.
Traditional craftsmanship, in our context, is all about the intricacies of embellishment—like Mukaish, chikankari, ari work—and those are things that I believe should continue to be done by hand, even as technology enters the picture. Technology can certainly help in areas like consistency and speed, but it should enhance, not replace, the artistry. For example, in techniques like block printing, the process can be long and labor-intensive, so it may naturally evolve into a smaller-scale use. But when it comes to embroidery and embellishment, there’s still something irreplaceable about the human touch. Modern technology can assist in the base production, but the finishing and detailing should always bring that handcrafted element.
As for the OTT collection, Indian craftsmanship is embedded in the drape—which, surprisingly, is one of the most overlooked aspects of our tradition. Draping has always been such a key part of Indian heritage, and I’ve chosen to highlight that in this collection. Slowly, as OTT evolves, more traditional techniques will be incorporated, such as kantha stitches and others, but for now, it’s about reinterpreting these crafts through a modern lens. It’s there in the tailoring, the draping, and in subtle details. It’s a blend of the old and new, where craftsmanship continues to play a vital role, but technology ensures that we can do it in ways that are versatile, efficient, and relevant for today’s world.
As someone who’s been at the forefront of the fashion industry, how do you see the future of fashion evolving in India over the next decade, especially with new technology like AI coming into play?
Honestly, while I can’t predict exactly how AI will shape the future of fashion in India, what I do know is that there’s something deeply rooted in our culture that values handmade, artisanal work. India has always cherished the craftsmanship and artistry behind what we wear, whether it’s the intricate embroidery of a sari or the careful handwork of a craftsman. We’re still the country where chapatis are made fresh, and that connection to tradition and hands-on work carries through to fashion as well.
That said, I do hope the fashion industry in India continues to evolve in a way that balances technology with our love for artistry. AI may have a role in production, logistics, and even personalization, but what’s most important is how we harness that technology while preserving the artistic soul of fashion.
Looking ahead, I hope the industry works more collaboratively, not just for creative innovation, but to address key issues like plagiarism, sustainability, and education for young designers. We need to build a stronger, more supportive community that nurtures talent, respects intellectual property, and educates the next generation on both the craft and business of fashion. That’s where the real transformation can happen—ensuring that creativity, ethics, and tradition remain at the heart of India’s fashion evolution.
Your designs are often celebrated for their seamless blend of Indian heritage with contemporary global styles. How have you incorporated Indian Craftsmanship into the OTT collection?
The OTT collection is a celebration of Indian craftsmanship but in a way that feels modern and wearable. While it’s rooted in Indian heritage, I’ve approached it with a fresh, global perspective, making sure it’s versatile and contemporary.
One of the most important ways I’ve incorporated Indian craftsmanship is through the drape. Draping has always been a cornerstone of Indian fashion, and in OTT, I’ve elevated this tradition to create fluid, elegant silhouettes that feel effortless yet deeply rooted in our cultural heritage. It’s one of those elements that often gets overlooked but plays such a significant role in Indian design.
Additionally, there are subtle touches of traditional embroidery and handcrafted techniques that have been integrated into the collection, like kantha stitches and chikankari. These are classic Indian techniques that I’ve reinterpreted for a more modern, everyday look. The embroidery and embellishments add texture and depth to the designs without being overbearing, making them perfect for contemporary, global wardrobes.
The goal with OTT is to honor these traditional techniques while making them accessible and wearable in a way that feels fresh, versatile, and modern. It’s all about creating a seamless fusion between heritage and modernity, allowing the craftsmanship to shine in a minimalist yet impactful way.
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