October 8, 2024

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It Was Cinema And Surinamese Culture At Amsterdam Fashion Week 2024

It Was Cinema And Surinamese Culture At Amsterdam Fashion Week 2024

Amsterdam Fashion Week (AFW) 2024 displayed a world of fashion through a cinematic lens, where collections were designed to be as immersive and dramatic as a Hollywood blockbuster. With each designer crafting a narrative transcending more than attire, the week’s runways felt like scenes from the silver screen. From upcycled streetwear to denim revival and Surinamese-inspired references, AFW 2024 showcased how fashion can mirror film’s ability to transport, challenge, and reflect the current times, or a distant fantasy world.

Amsterdam Fashion Week (AFW) 2024 displayed a world of fashion through a cinematic lens, where collections were designed to be as immersive and dramatic as a Hollywood blockbuster. With each designer crafting a narrative transcending more than attire, the week’s runways felt like scenes from the silver screen. From upcycled streetwear to denim revival and Surinamese-inspired references, AFW 2024 showcased how fashion can mirror film’s ability to transport, challenge, and reflect the current times, or a distant fantasy world.

Held in the opulent Hotel De L’Europe, the Atelier Reserve runway show contrasted the venue’s historic grandeur with futuristic, dystopian streetwear fashion. Its founders, Alljan Moehamad and Deyrinio Fraenk, set their collection against the backdrop of the hotel’s old-world luxury, creating a juxtaposition with the brand’s upcycled, dystopian streetwear.

Co-founder Deyrinio Fraenk describes it, “How something can evolve… [Our] first show was really about friends, family, and relationships. The second show focused on discomfort. Everyone deals with some kind of discomfort in their life, whether it’s related to gender, occupation, age, or anything else.”

“This year, we approached it with a more commercial focus—sizes, colors, clothing, and making everything adjustable,” he continues. “Like the pants, for example—[she] can wear them, but [I] can also wear them. [You] could wear them too. And with the colors, you saw some of the models, like the one with a hijab—we even had pieces that were appropriate for her.”

Rusted tones and artfully deconstructed denim offered a glimpse into a future where sustainability reigns supreme, yet luxury is not forgotten. Their silhouettes were extravagant, but every stitch reflected a commitment to mindful tailoring—a mix of old-school craftsmanship and new-world consciousness.

“But if you saw it in the shop, like a bomber jacket, you might not expect her to wear it, or a pair of shorts with skulls. We thought it through carefully, as a team, including the hairdressers and everyone involved. I’m proud of what we’ve done.”

Johnny Blood was a horror film depicted on its Spring/Summer ‘25 runway show. Taking inspiration directly from Hollywood’s horror films, Johnny Blood turned the runway into a haunted hayride. The eerie scene was heightened with flashing lights, an ominous atmosphere, and a collection that seemed ripped straight out of a cult classic. The Netherlands-based fashion brand embraced the macabre, using avant-garde silhouettes and dark, theatrical fabrics to transport the audience into a stylized world where fashion, like film, can evoke deep emotions—fear, excitement, and intrigue.

Denzel Veerkamp brought the warmth and vibrancy of Suriname to the often-muted palette of Dutch fashion. His designs, made from upcycled fabrics, were a beautiful blend of Caribbean culture and Dutch minimalism. Titled Abrasei, this collection was a dreamy reflection on the past, mixing relics of a vibrant history with futuristic aesthetics. Rustic fabrics met modern cuts, creating a juxtaposition of nostalgia and fantasy, reminiscent of a period piece where history comes alive on screen.

The story of DENHAM The Jeanmaker’s first Amsterdam Fashion Week show was timeless craftsmanship. In partnership with The Collectives, DENHAM brought a refreshing perspective to denim with their concept, “It all started with a jean.”

This narrative-driven collection embodied magnetic energy and effortless style. Together, DENHAM and The Collectives revived classic vintage pieces from their archives, merging them with modern designer looks. The result was a celebration of denim history, told through the lens of innovation, collaboration, and sustainability.

In a nod to the cliché motifs and the beloved Hollywood coming-of-age stories, AFW hosted the 18th edition of the prestigious Lichting Award, celebrating the best new talent in Dutch fashion. Peter Wertmann, a graduate of KABK – Royal Academy of Arts in The Hague, won the 2024 award for his stunning collection, which captured the contrasts between the open landscapes of the Arctic and the confined discipline of his military experience.

His creations felt like an exploration of both inner and outer worlds, a journey of self-discovery reminiscent of an epic adventure. His thoughtful construction and precise tailoring earned him a cash prize and the opportunity to show his collection at AFW 2025.

Designer Rushemy Botter and his creative partner, Lisi Herrebrugh, started their collaboration when Botter began university, first with fashion house Nina Ricci, then their brand, BOTTER. BOTTER serves as a canvas for its Caribbean roots, blending island influences into its unique interpretation of couture. Their collaboration with ELLE Netherlands during Amsterdam Fashion Week 2024 brought this vision to life, with a special issue launched at the FOUR streetwear retailers.

Herrana Addisu’s film “THE RIVER,” screened during Amsterdam Fashion Week, added a deeply cinematic dimension to the fashion-filled week. Known for her work as a filmmaker and social impact strategist, Addisu’s storytelling through Chucha Studios brought a unique narrative to the runway experience.

Her visual artistry focused on a community-driven story stemming from her home of Ethiopia, seamlessly blending cultural reflections and the beauty of nature, styled in traditional garments, which resonated with the thematic diversity and inclusive spirit of the week. The screening of “THE RIVER” enriched the event, providing an intersection between fashion and film, and enhancing the creative dialogue across multiple mediums.

In its fifth year, 1/OFF, in collaboration with Nespresso, launched the “Eternal” collection at Amsterdam Fashion Week. Since 2019, the brand has been known for transforming vintage clothing into upcycled designs, and with “Eternal,” they invited audiences “to embrace the unknown and the infinite,” a press release details.

“Eternal” goes beyond fashion—it is “an invitation to see, feel, and experience the world differently,” where clothing becomes part of “an eternal cycle of creativity and inspiration.” As 1/OFF redesigns each piece, “the memory of the vintage item lives on,” making garments not just objects, but “a living part of the 1/OFF history.”

In an age dominated by digital experiences, Wandler and Ward Strootman aimed to slow things down for their Fall/Winter 2024 presentation. Titled “Focus on the Good,” the show was an immersive experience where art, fashion, and nature intertwined.

The audience was invited to pause and reflect, reconnecting with their senses as they walked through a carefully curated space filled with sculptures, moss landscapes, and a brass sun sculpture. Fashion became a meditative journey rather than a spectacle. The collection, featuring iconic pieces like the Hortensia and Penelope bags, was displayed alongside Ward Strootman’s art pieces, seamlessly merging craftsmanship with natural beauty.

The Patchwork Family returned to AFW with an even bolder showcase. Known for their upcycled creations and boundary-pushing designs, the collective took over Club Shelter for a show that was part rave, part fashion protest. With over 60 looks and a cast of 50 performers, their showcase was an immersive celebration of queer culture, nightlife, and radical inclusivity. The Patchwork Family broke down the elitism of fashion by opening the show to the public.

Amsterdam Fashion Week 2024 exhibited clothing through a cinematic experience, where designers told stories through fabric, texture, and craftsmanship. Whether drawing from the suspense of a horror film, the sweeping epic of a historical drama, or the quiet introspection of an indie film, each designer contributed to a larger narrative about the future of fashion. Collaborative, sustainable, and filled with creative potential, AFW showed that fashion, much like cinema, has the power to make us dream, reflect, and imagine new possibilities.


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