How Loewe balances heritage, craftsmanship and cultural relevance in luxury fashion

Founded in 1846 in Madrid, Spain, by a collective of leather craftsmen, Loewe has grown into a major player across 32 countries, with over 160 stores worldwide. In recent years, campaigns featuring stars including Maggie Smith, Aubrey Plaza and Daniel Craig have drawn attention for their blend of surprise, celebrity and luxury.

What makes Loewe Loewe?

“Loewe has been incredibly consistent, both in its efforts to build distinctiveness and in elevating the perceived value of its creations,” says Laurent François, managing partner at 180 Social and 180 Luxe, which counts Dior among its clients.

“Craft, combined with a strong semiotic and aesthetic world, and commitments to more conscious luxury, has made it one of the first brands to convey an immediately understandable vibe – sought after by connoisseurs and triggering the interest of newcomers.”

According to the marketer, finding the delicate balance between the house’s Spanish heritage and establishing a modern identity took years.

But Loewe isn’t confined to its heritage; it’s creating a dynamic storyworld with strong brand elements – its tone, iconography and core themes – allowing it to connect with like-minded communities.

When it responds to a tomato meme, it’s not just any meme – it’s a tomato that’s ‘so Loewe,’ highlighting the brand’s distinctive iconographic and symbolic power. It’s a playful nod to its roots, as well as to nature.

By turning a fleeting social media joke into a luxury item, Loewe showed its digital savviness. Just two days after the tomato meme, the house had whipped up a clutch that was the spitting image of the viral fruit. Decked out with gold hardware, this internet sensation flaunted the luxury label’s logo on its stem and, if you push it, the bag’s plush, green interior is revealed.

Speaking to culture and charging premium creates tension

Loewe has a deep awareness of its history and a keen understanding of its consumers, knowing not just who they are but what resonates with them emotionally and culturally.

This insight allows the brand to communicate in authentic and relevant ways, whether through innovative campaigns, playful social media interactions or collaborations that speak directly to its audience’s tastes and values. It’s this combination of self-awareness and customer insight.

“In the past, luxury meant a level of elitism and perfection that often alienated people,” explains Paul Birkhead, creative partner at Syn, which counts Dr Martens and Adidas among its clients. “Loewe still achieves a very premium and considered tone, but it has a human element to it which makes the brand and its campaigns feel more relatable.”

The mindset of ‘what’s next?’

In addition to the typical seasonal campaigns, Loewe recognizes a different timeline – one that’s more influenced by social media and attuned to the global audience’s pulse. A prime example is Loewe’s annual Paula’s Ibiza campaign, which celebrates a more insular way of life.

By creating an ongoing narrative with this project, and each year introducing new chapters, Loewe demonstrates its ability to shape culture and remain relevant over time. “The craft and passion it takes to create these items are key for customers who are craving the best-perceived value,” adds François.

“The ability to surprise creates a mindset of ‘what’s next?’ while maintaining a fascinating red thread – particularly the balance between nature and fashion. Loewe’s disruptive mastery of traditional marketing timelines is also very strong.”

A polarizing creative director

Jonathan Anderson joined Loewe as creative director in 2013. Since then, he has been instrumental in revitalizing the brand, both creatively and commercially, while bringing a fresh perspective to the storied Spanish house.

“The eye of the auteur is inherent within Jonathan Anderson – someone who has been and is always willing to polarize audiences – but it is also true to the brand’s DNA,” says Fred Paginton, executive creative director at Spring Studios, which boasts Marni and Victoria Beckham as clients.

“Loewe takes every opportunity to reaffirm its single-minded commitment to artistic craft and design, through clothing and accessories shown at fashion week, the nuanced visual codes and artistically-led campaigns, to the collaborators and ambassadors they work with who adorn the front row and red carpet moments.”

Not a traditional celebrity brand

Everything and everyone Loewe collaborates with is thoughtfully nuanced. Its partnerships are rich with perspective and a distinct point of view, tapping into individual passions that may not appeal to everyone but resonate deeply with the right audience. And that’s the key to the success.

For example, the signing of Past Lives director Greta Lee and The Bear star Ayo Edebiri, alongside longer-term collaborators and ambassadors Josh O’Connor, Daniel Craig and Luca Guadagnino, resulted in a family of people who are each, in their respective fields, utterly dedicated to the craft of artistic creation, making progressive, thought-provoking and completely contemporary work.

“That’s a direct reflection of the Loewe brand ethos: again eschewing celebrity for celebrity’s sake and pulling into its orbit talent partners at the top of their respective creative games (Rihanna at the Superbowl also comes to mind),” adds Paginton.

“That tracks right down to its social media partnerships: Adrian Raza, who Loewe worked with to promote a T-shirt from its FW24 collection, has dedicated hundreds of hours to practicing the craft of skimboarding.”

Other standout projects include the brand’s celebration of the Lunar New Year, where Loewe collaborated with master jade carvers to create five exclusive jade pendants. This partnership struck a chord with both luxury and fashion enthusiasts, blending cultural tradition with high-end craftsmanship.

More recently, Loewe’s Crafted World exhibition, its largest to date, celebrated the brand’s heritage by showcasing a curated selection of products and elements that highlighted its craftsmanship and creative process. Loewe draws energy from its rich history, using it as a contemporary canvas to engage with the present.

Drops and lore

Navigating the world through our phones, we treat brand social channels like just another form of entertainment media: gossip, drops and lore keep us glued to our screens.

“Luxury used to be elitist, like the art world, with the process of creation and exclusive closed-knit creative communities hidden behind the closed doors,” adds Paginton.

“But what Loewe does so successfully is recognize the democracy of art and design, bridging the gap between high forms of expression and accessible media, creating a beautiful dichotomy that audiences love to tune into and take away new forms of inspiration.”

Challenges on the horizon

The challenges Loewe faces aren’t dissimilar to those faced by any luxury brands that start playing more in a cultural space.

“Speaking to culture while charging a premium will always create tension,” says Birkhead. “The challenge is how you navigate that tension without alienating those who can’t afford the product.”

He highlights brands such as Mastermind, which has managed to remain relevant in streetwear culture despite their high price points. As long as Loewe stays true to its brand voice and maintains authenticity, it is entirely possible for it to engage with culture while still preserving an exclusive appeal.